Pitch 1: We started up to the right to a tree and traversed in. It takes some getting used to the thickness of the ice, because it is thin and hard on the brain. You have to be prepared to move off the ice to get in rock gear, and be prepared to dig around – literally. Jay did an awesome job of leading the first mind-altering 60 meter pitch. Grade 5 difficulty with old school mixed movement thrown in. Bolt and tree belay off to the left on a ledge, well protected from ice and rock (and climber) falling.
Pitch 2: More of the same scary thin ice. Some rock gear on the upper squeeze (red TCU and knifeblade). Bad stubbies used when possible. 30 meters to a tree, horn and cam belay on the left. Get in the off-width to stay protected from the falling crap on the next pitch.
Pitch 3: (Easier, kind of fun) Over a chockstone (small gear possible), and follow lower angle ice vein to a squeeze at the top. Very cool pitch. 60 meters.
Pitch 4: From this belay, it is an easy 15 meters to trees.
Descent: Move up and right to get into a gully that is easily followed and returns you to the base in 15 minutes.
|

BMOR from the base (we came in
from the right) |